I’m a motorcyclist and I commute about 300 miles a week on my trusty new Honda CBF125. The motorcycle is my only form of transport, bar public transport, and I choose to ride primarily because of the extremely low costs of doing so. To put things into perspective, if I was covering the same commute by train, I would pay 2 – 3 times as much for a season ticket as I would to keep my bike running (that includes ALL costs, even insurance and road tax)!
My background is technical, but specialised towards music, and I am qualified to degree level in the field of music technology. Since an early age I have had an urge to take things apart, starting with my grandfather’s old alarm clock – I even managed to put it back together again, although it has never worked since! I currently work in a support role at a university, assisting staff and students in using the technical facilities my department has to offer, as well as maintaining, installing and upgrading those facilities as and when needed. My work is varied – I can find myself undertaking tasks ranging from stripping down an amplifier and diagnosing a fault, to re-skinning a drum kit, setting up and operating a PA system for an event, or even performing administrative tasks on the computer network we provide. I am also qualified as an Apple Certified Trainer for their music production software, Logic Pro.
I am also a husband and father to three children, a dog, three rabbits, two guinea pigs and two goldfish. You could say that I have rather a lot on my plate, but to be honest, I must admit that it’s really my wonderful wife who keeps everything propped up. You could even go as far to suggest that I’m her fourth child!
I have held a full motorcycle licence since June 2008 and previously rode a Yamaha YBR125, achieving a mileage of nearly 40’000 miles on it, having owned it since it originally had only done 500 miles. Sadly, it was written off in an accident that was not my fault. That bike taught me an incredible amount about maintenance – I took on all the servicing after 16’000 miles and built up a fair amount of experience of how to keep it going all year round over 3 winters.
I’ve decided to write about my experiences with the CBF125 as it’s quite a ‘new kid on the block’, as it were. It’s an adventure for me as I have no idea how things will pan out, although the CBF125 is *supposed* to supersede the venerable CG125! I plan to run it indefinitely and take on all servicing myself, bar the 600 mile service. Hopefully these experiences might provide others with some helpful insight into how the CBF125 fares, it’s characteristics, quirks, strengths, weaknesses and longevity.
I’m always looking to hear from other riders and any insight and experiences they want to share, so please do contact me if you feel you have something to say!
Hi as you are in the Uk, I think that should be Licence !
license (American English) licence (British English, Canadian English, Australian English)
Hi David,
Thank you for your comment, it’s now corrected. Seems the dictionaries on here don’t pick it up. I wasn’t even aware there was an alternative spelling (by the way, the ‘k’ in UK should be in upper case)!
Do you have any advice on this bike, I am trading up from the ‘old’ CG125 (1994) and hope to get the ‘new’ cbf125 within the next week! They are waiting to get the Black i requested. I then have to travel 70 miles or so home on twisty roads and a ferry! Initially what should I watchout for?
Many thanks in advance
Susan
Hi Susan,
Personally, unless the CG has a major problem(s) that would cost a lot of money to fix, I would actually keep the CG! The CG is renowned for its reliability, due to its really simple design, which includes a carburettor (see my post about the fuel injection issues with the CBF) and excellent overhead valve/pushrod engine (more reliable than overhead cam, and easier to work on!) How many miles has it done, out of interest? I have heard of one example doing 250’000 (yes that’s a quarter of a million!), and many going round the clock. The only reason I never got one is because they’re hard to find where I live (at least when I was looking). For sure the CBF has a more modern look and I think the build quality is okay, but I am not 100% convinced that India is as good at it as Brazil was (where the CG was built). CG’s have nearly 40 years of service behind them, going back to the 1970′s and they have built up a solid reputation over time. The CBF is only a couple of years old, so we’re still in ‘uncharted waters’ with it at the moment.
All that aside, if it’s a brand new bike, then watch out for the tyres – firstly make sure they’re Continental Conti Go!’s and not TVS, which are awful! Also, any new tyre will have a residue left on from the manufacturing process that preserves it. You need to be gentle with them for a couple of hundred miles or so, go slow into corners and don’t lean the bike too much at first (gradually increase the lean over a few journeys). Also be careful and gentle with the brakes as the pads/shoes will be new, and you could (in theory) easily lock a wheel if you brake too enthusiastically. They might snag as the friction surfaces need to bed to the disc/drum respectively. That is, any irregularities in the pads need to be worn out. Allow a hundred miles or so (so I’ve been told!) and just brake gently, rather than ‘last moment, grab a fistful’ style. You’ll also notice that the front disc brake is much more powerful than the drum on the CG and it might take you by surprise.
Now this part (about engine running in) is subjective and there are many opinions about how to do it, or whether to do it at all! Personally, I did run the engine in as per Honda’s instructions – which was to ride normally (not ragging it at full throttle all the time), and letting it idle and warm up for 5 minutes before setting off on a journey. Finally, watch out for the fuel pump, especially if it’s a hot day – if your bike is a late 2010 or 2011 model, you may well have a CBF that has a faulty one and you’ll know it when your bike starts to lurch as the engine momentarily gains/looses power when the fuel injection system goes crazy. If it happens, just park up for half an hour or so and you’ll be okay to carry on as normal. Then call the dealership you got the bike from and they should replace the defective pump under warranty.
Hope this helps and I hope you enjoy whatever bike you choose to carry on with!
Many thanks for that, I will be keeping the CG, as you rightly say it is very reliable, but prone to needing alot of TLC! The idea of the CBF is not a new one, I have been toying with it of over a year. I am in the Western Isles, Scottish Off shore so it will be fun and game taking it back with a faulty fuel pump! It reminds me of the first time i drove a car with power steering, i spent most of my time over correcting to compensate, so this should be fun and games, oh i didnt mention, Im 40 and can strip and rebuild the CG!
Thanks again for the advice
I certainly don’t have your years of experience (only been doing this for 3 years and I’m not 30 yet!).
I bet you’ll miss how certain things on the CG are so straightforward compared to the CBF (like the FI system and disc brake)! I always wonder why they add these mod-cons to what are supposed to be basic machines. I know EU emissions laws are responsible for fuel injection but a disc brake (it’s nice but I think drums work fine on a small cc bike)?! Maybe Honda would ship you out parts to replace yourself if anything was faulty? Also not sure if your location means that the bike would be more exposed to a lot of salt from the sea. People have reported corrosion issues on the CBF, specifically the exhaust and other shiny bits like the brake pedal/gearshift. You might have heard of ACF-50, which is excellent at preventing corrosion – http://www.acf-50.co.uk/motorcycle.htm – although it’ll burn off the exhaust pipe if you put it there. There are stainless steel exhausts available for the CBF though for when the stock one does finally rust through.
I will also be using ZX1 which is an oil additive but will not effect the ‘wet’ clutch, should i ever lose the oil in the engine it wont refuse to go ever again and Ice polish which coats all ‘shiny’ bits. I am hoping that i will be allowed to service the bike myself, even a child could do that! Yes you are right i am exposed to much more sea salt, this should be fun.
Regards as always
Never tried oil additives myself, do they make a difference in your opinion? One other thing about the CBF is that Honda only specify 10w30 oil in that engine for some reason. I don’t see how using 10w40 or other common viscosities would harm it but I thought it was a little peculiar of them to do it. Warranty-wise you can service it yourself but if it develops a fault due to something you did, it’s not covered, although failure of something that has nothing to do with how you service it is covered. When I asked my dealer they told me it was fine as long as I use genuine Honda parts. A lot of dealers do want you to get bikes serviced by them as they can make more money out of it, but we know better!
By the way, fuel economy is much better on the CBF than the CG – I’m getting around 130mpg on average and I wouldn’t say I ride it carefully, just normally.
Another difference is the riding position – it’s a bit ‘sportier’ than the CG/YBR style bikes (my legs are further back/bent) and higher up – I noticed I can see over cars a lot more easily which is really good. I find it a lot more comfortable over longer journeys personally.
The fairing also catches the wind more than a naked bike – I found I have to wrestle it a bit more when there are strong side winds. The tall screen is worth getting (go for the Givi one as it’s cheaper and looks very similar to the Honda one, in fact Givi make Honda’s one for them, as well as the luggage bits). The plastic ‘sports rack’ which is standard, is useless for securing luggage on and there are no anchor points for bungees on the frame – Honda/Givi do a proper luggage rack and you can secure their top box plates to it or just use it as is.
Forgot to say something, if you don’t mind i have put a link to your blog on the CBF 125 Portugal forum.
Lol @ trolldad
Hi Mate,
Nice blog, Picking my new CBF125 tomorrow, I have my own Blog if interested. It till be interesting to see our take on this machine.
Hey Paul, thanks for posting, I’m really intrigued, as after reading your blogs, you seem to be dropping ten sizes of bike down to a 125! Watch out for the fuel pump – there is a faulty batch of them out in the wild, and you’ll know it if, on a very hot day, your CBF starts to ‘kangaroo hop’ and lose power. Your dealer will replace it with a new one under warranty if it does have a problem. You might be interested in the CBF125 Facebook Owner’s Group too.
Cheers for that Information, the CBF is an addition, my current bikes are staying put. Hopefully my reason will become clearer as the blog unfolds.
I love all bikes of all shapes and sizes, CBF takes me back to my youth and my very first bike a Honda CG125.
Ride safe and enjoy the low cost mile.
Hey mate
Just wanted to say I love the site, am gonna use your info to help me do a fuel filter on mine. I hope you don’t mind but I’ve blatantly borrowed a lot of ideas from your site for my own at http://www.martincrowe.co.uk. I really hope you don’t mind, but if you do, let me know and I’ll change my content. I did reference your site as the inspiration for mine
Cheers
Martin
Hi, I was wondering if you knew from your work shop manual what the torque figures to change the cylinder head gasket?
I have the gasket set on order, I wanted to get a Haynes Manual, but there isnt one yet.
If you could help me with this I would be most grateful!
All the best Rob,
(ps… Love the blog!)
Hi Rob,
The figures you need are:
Cylinder head cover bolt (x2): 10Nm
Rocker arm shaft bolt (x2): 5Nm
Cam sprocket bolt (x2): 9Nm
Camshaft holder bolt (x4): 32Nm
Insulator socket bolt (CCT mounting bolts really) (x2): 12Nm
Cylinder head bolts aren’t mentioned so they’ll use the standard torque for whatever size they are, which also isn’t mentioned! I’d have thought they’d be M6 or M8. If M6 then 10Nm, if M8 then 22Nm.
Hope this helps.
Thank you ever so much! You are a star!!!!!
Hey, I’ve had the CBF 125 since July 2010 and as a learner/ commuter bike it’s not once had a problem. Does what it needs to do I went from south Wales to north wales and back in a day and ran like a dream.
One thing I must say tho is change the tiers from factory as there total rubbish, I got the contis and noticed more traction and better accrle
Hi Stephen,
Indeed, most new 2011 CBF’s are coming with Conti-Go’s as standard. Mine did. I never experienced the fabled TVS tyres, but on my YBR, it had Cheng Shin nylon tyres which I suspect were plagued by the same problems. Awful grip in the wet, and in the dry if I had to brake suddenly. I quickly changed them for Pirelli City Demons which were much better and later Michelin Pilot Sportys which were the best I’ve ever used. I’d even say a bit better than Conti-Go’s but not by much. It’s a shame you can’t get them in the CBF’s sizes – some people have fitted the closest match but they are a little bigger and there are accounts of them rubbing on the brake arm, which is definitely no good.
Hi, great site…just got my CBF yesterday!
I’ve already come across a problem though, my left wing mirror is loose and just flaps. I’ve taken back the rubber protector and tried adjusting the bolts but I just can’t seem to get it to tighten… I’m sure it’s something very basic, but it just won’t stop flapping!
Any ideas?
Perhaps you stripped a thread? I doubt it though as that would be quite difficult. Wing mirror nuts can be awkward. I can’t remember for the CBF specifically at the moment, but on some bikes they are reverse-threaded – you hold the mirror still and turn the nut – sometimes anti-clockwise in order to tighten. You’ll soon find out…
I have just found out that I have one of the faulty fuel pump injectors! like riding a bucking bronco! But I suspect I’ll be waiting till 2049 for the replacement part as I have been waiting for a new side panel since apr 28th and numerous other parts after a collision with a blind taxi driver. I like this bike alot but I will never be buying a bike that is manufactured in India again due to the impossibility of getting parts.
Not sure about the plastics but in my case, the new fuel pump arrived within a week or so. There are quite a few parts on eBay, and other sites like Wemoto, but I agree, some things in particular do seem harder to get hold of.
Hi,
I am a bit freaked out, because, I think you and I are the same person. I, like you, am a qualified sound engineer and work in a university (although ProTools is my area rather that Logic). I also ride a CBF125 (Black) and hold a full licence. And to finish off, I also like to take everything to bits.
The day I got the new bike (26th June 09) I took her for a 120 mile spin and within a couple of hours of arriving home I had everything off her bar the engine. Oh yeah, we even have the same alarm fitted too. Next you’ll be saying you have fitted R & G heatted grips for the winter…
Love the site mate, keep up the good work.
All the best
Steven
Don’t worry my name isn’t Steven! Although I’ve used Pro Tools on and off over the years… just that where I work at the moment is Logic based so I have to follow suit.
Thanks for the kind comments! I am not going with heated grips – Tucano Urbano R361 bar muffs are more than enough for my hands. Things have been very busy lately with work/family but I am hoping to post some more articles soon.
Can I say how excited that I am of taking posession of my first motor bike(November 2011), the CBF125M9, 59 plate, but even more excited that I have found your site so soon after getting my bike. I’m 39, have been working as an offshore mechanic since 1997 and reading through your site I cant believe the support and confidence you have given me. The onshore technical support for my company isnt as good as this site, believe me!
So thank you for your hard work and knowledge. I’m sure I will be posting some comments and asking questions in the near future.
All the best for the New Year
Stuart
I bought my new cbf125,after 1122 miles I took it back to motoden for first servic
e.I paid £135 and the mechanic asked me to take it back for second service if I reach 2500 miles.I think is too much.I’ve decided servicing it once a year.What could you advice me?
The mechanic is right – Honda state that the bike should be serviced first after 600 miles then at 2’500 miles (or 6 months, whichever comes first) and every 2’500 miles/6 months after, so your first service was actually late! In your owner’s manual, is a full breakdown of what needs to be done at each service. Servicing is done by mileage rather than time, unless you don’t clock up enough miles over a long time.
Oil changes are extremely important for small engines like this that are high-revving – the oil does loads of jobs such as lubricating, cleaning, cooling and is shared between all the moving parts of the engine as well as the gearbox and clutch. These small bikes do need a fair amount of attention and they are ideal for learning how to do the work yourself – no excuse now as the Haynes manual has recently been published! You’ll save a fortune by doing the work yourself as well.
HI!
I’ve just procured a 09 CBF. And while searching for some technical information I stumbled upon this blog. I just want to say that I really like It as its a great bench mark for me to use as a guide.
I do have one question. My bike is in need of a new front tire and the back is almost new. Do you have any input as to a good tire? I don’t mind the cost as long as it keeps me on the road instead of in a ditch. I spend allot of time commuting down tiny lanes in Devon so something that can handle a bit of wet and mud or is exceptionally sticky would be great.
Any help would be greatly appreciated,
Continental Conti-Go!’s are quite well regarded on this bike but they are road tyres – they do well in the rain but I have no idea how they cope on mud/off road surfaces. Michelin Pilot Sportys are also excellent but come in slightly different sizes than what’s standard for the CBF – in terms of insurance, that’s a modification that you have to declare. I’d say any road tyre would struggle and ‘knobblies’ are seldom road legal (I haven’t seen any that are).
Thanks for the advice!
I have been researching both as well as what I’ve got at the moment. The front is the infamous TVS, so I’m happy to get rid of it. The rear is a bit interesting though. Its a 100/80-17 by a company called Deli Tire. I have no complaints about it but I’ve been riding bikes long enough to know unmatched and unknown tires are a liability. I also don’t minding spending a bit extra on quality. I’ve learned my lesson about cheap tires in the past. So do you think there is any significant difference in the Continentals compared to the Michelin or is it down to tire compound?
Thanks again
Rod
I had Pilot Sportys on my old YBR and they were the best tyres I’ve ever tried, but the Conti-Go’s are okay. I find the CBF isn’t as easy to corner as my YBR – I feel that the bike doesn’t really ‘want’ to lean as much, where I could really throw the YBR about. Maybe it’s because of the different tyre sizes or perhaps it’s something to do with the geometry of the bikes, or maybe it’s differences between the tyres themselves, I don’t know. I would get Conti-Go’s again though.
Fantastic Blog! Really well done. I just moved to Mexico City from New York City and traffic is a nightmare. I am looking at buying a small motorcycle for the commute to and from work, short distances in intense traffic. Looking at the Honda CGL125 Tool, the CG125 Cargo and the CBF150. The CG125 is only available as a single passenger, with a rack. Have been very interested in your comments to Susan to keep the CG. What would be your recommendation?
Link to Honda Mexico, http://www.honda.mx/motos/unicorn/
Thank you!
Mark
If we could still buy new CG’s here in the UK I’d have gone for that – here the CBF is essentially being sold as the CG’s replacement. The CG’s overhead valve push-rod engine is more reliable and mechanically simpler, as is the carb that fuels it. Less to go wrong, easier and cheaper to fix when it does, ideal commuter/workhorse transport!
Fuel economy will be better on the CBF, but not by much (the CG does about 90-100 miles to the imperial gallon, whereas the CBF does 120-130). The only other reason I can see for going with the CBF would be style. The CBF150 is the same as the CBF125 but with a larger top end (piston/cylinder) in the engine – the bottom end is the same as far as I know, but it’s not sold in the UK.
Thank you! Love your straight forward “workhorse” approach to motorcycles! Did you have a chance to look at the Honda Mexico Link?
http://www.honda.mx/motos/tool/
Not sure if the CGL125 and the CG150 are the same as the bikes that were sold in the UK. The CGL is said to be built in Mexico and the CG built in China. The CG150 is only available as a one seater, while the CGL125 is available for two up.
Would appreciate your thoughts. Although the CBF looks nice, the CGL is very inexpensive $1100USD.
Thank you!
We don’t really have 150cc bikes here, but they do resemble the older CG’s that were sold here – before 2004. Specifically because they have a drum brake rather than a disc brake on the front. It’s a really old fashioned design, but that’s good as it’s easy and simple to work on if you’re taking on the servicing yourself. A disc brake will have better stopping power than the drum brake but on a 125 I wouldn’t be overly worried – I did my basic training on an old drum brake CG and didn’t find it an issue. The drum brake is simpler to work on and doesn’t involve having to do fluid changes/bleeding or servicing a fiddly calliper mechanism which can suffer badly from neglect and corrosion. It will need adjusting from time to time as the shoes wear – a disc brake is self-adjusting. Adjustment is easy on a drum brake though. The 150 will have a little more acceleration than the 125 but not very much. Going 2-up on a 125 is doable but quite slow – I managed about 40mph tops with my wife on the back of the bike and it took a very long time to get there!
Thinking about it, in Mexico I bet the climate is hot and dry all year round, and you won’t have road salt to contend with – British weather, especially winters, are very hard on our bikes, we can go from temperatures in the 30′s (Celsius) in summer to -10 in winter with ice/snow, with rain, wind, hail and everything else in between! We get it all…
You just made my life much simpler! Just saw a silver CGL125 on the street, very pretty, I love the simplicity, looks like a motorcycle should!
I would be happy if I could go 40mph! We sat at the same stop light this morning for more than 10 minutes.
Thank you for your advice!
You’ll do way better than 40mph on your own – should at 50 easily, and do more at a push (could get to 65-70 eventually but it’ll be screaming). I just converted the price – it’s in Peso’s, right? Came to just under £800 sterling – an absolute utter bargain! I wouldn’t even have to think about getting one if we could get them at that price here. A new CBF costs £2400 and is the cheapest geared bike Honda do here (damn EU emissions laws which mean no more carbs for us)… Go for it!
CGL 14,900 Pesos = $1,159USD = 740GPN
Thanks!
Hi,
This weekend I was in an empty car park practising slalom and figure 8′s around some cones (Sondico football cones – £7 for 6 cones – and they do the job great) in preperation for when I do the module 1 test in spring. I’m getting better with practice at slipping the clutch in 1st and tweaking the revs just above idle speed to control turns around the cones (I try to do it without the feathering rear brake as it’s an extra control to think about), but occasionally still have to dab a foot down.
Anyway, I decided to try the slalom and figure 8′s in 2nd gear, instead of 1st, and was amazed to find it was much much much easier! I could weave in and out of the slalom cones and do tight figure 8′s like pro. The module 1 test has the slalom set at 4.5m between cones and the figure 8 cones are 6m apart. I was able to do all manoevres with great ease with just 3m between all cones and never dabbing a foot down. I think it’s due to 2nd gear reducing the acceleration at low revs compared to 1st, so speed control was smoother and less jerky.
My questions are, is using 2nd gear for slow control harrmful to the CBF125 in any way (the engine didn’t sound like it was labouring)?
Also, do you think a module1 examiner would fail me for using 2nd gear for the slalom and figure 8′s, even though I can still go at walking pace in 2nd? I’ve read that you would get a fail for not using 1st gear for the slow ride section of the test, but the slow ride is much easier. Obviously, you have to start moving off in 1st at all times (improper use of gears if you don’t, so I would have to change up to 2nd quickly before the slalom cones.
Hi,
Not really sure how an examiner would react to the gears you use, especially as when I took my test, Module 1/2 didn’t exist – it was just a 40 minute ride on the roads with the examiner following, so I have absolutely no experience with anything to do with riding for the Module 1 test. I’m not sure if they can easily tell which gear you’re in anyway, so long as you ride accurately and with good control.
You do make the engine labour a little harder using 2nd for really low speeds but it shouldn’t cause any problems. In snow/ice I use 2nd gear for slow control to really limit the amount of power/torque going to the rear wheel so it has less chance of loosing grip.
as its the same test pad for a1/a2/a with regards to the circit etc, stick to first. those dsa types love making more rules, speaking as a fellow learner.
Excellent blog!
Have had my CBF for a year now and am very impressed. I also bought from Belle Vue in Southend and was pleased with the service. Have serviced the bike myself from the first 600 miles and found it very user friendly. Had a Honda XR 125l as my daily commuter until it went bang! 62000 miles, hope the CBF lasts too….. How have you found the A13/ Sadlers Farm Chaos?? Don’t ya feel chuffed filtering through…… getting 100mpg plus….. I’ve never been more glad I got out of the car and back on the bike!! Safe Riding
Sadlers Farm – my God what a nightmare at the moment. Have you noticed the amount of mud and gravel on the roundabout lately? You have to literally tiptoe around it. Still, I hope the improvements are worth it in the end – for those of us going from the A13 to the A130, it should be a lot better.
Yep the mud and debris is quite an issue. Not much more they can do really as it’s like a car park most days! Have found I get really filthy riding along the A13 these days, and the little Honda loves to spray road grime all up your back!! Will be fabricating a rear hugger extension before the winter.
Hi
I am a CBF 125 Commuter . Nearly 2 years now . Far North Scotland . Need 2 change my back tyre .where can I find out how to take tyre off and new one on . Tools ect. I will be need ing to change my chain and sprocket soon too any info on how would be very well received .
Tom 29
Get yourself the Haynes manual – it covers changing tyres and chain/sprockets. I’d recommend tyres are done professionally as they’re difficult to do when it comes to tubeless tyres on alloy rims. And then you have the issue of wheel balancing. Nothing like changing a bicycle tyre…
I haven’t seen any weights on either my front wheel or back .have you on yours? I don’t think you need to balance this wheel due to the bike doing such low speeds. Will buy the Haynes . Going to change my own tyres because it’s much cheaper ” only £35 for conti gos back tyre. It’s the way forward .
I haven’t seen weights but would imagine you could get the wheels balanced if you wanted to. I agree it may not be worth it and I never did with my YBR. Being tubeless tyres, getting a good airtight seal around the rim is essential, and alloy rims are very difficult when it comes to removing tyres by hand/tyre levers. It’s very easy to damage the rims/paint. If you can take the wheel loose to a tyre shop it won’t be too expensive (I was quoted £15) and they use a machine to do it. I have a good friend who is a mechanic and have watched him battle with them (swearing and all!) and would never want to attempt it myself – for what it costs it’s not worth chancing it in my opinion.