1’500 miles – might as well do an oil change!

…and that’s it really. My first oil change on this bike, somewhat of a milestone perhaps, or not. I thought that I may as well keep an eye on things that little bit more, leading up to the first major service interval at 2’500 miles, as things are still bedding in and there will still be a little of the original oil from the run-in period left in the engine (you can never get it all out). I opted to stick with Honda’s specified Castrol Power 1 10w30 (previously called GPS). It’s reddish in colour and quite runny compared to the 10w40 stuff I’m used to. You’ll never go wrong by changing the oil more frequently than the service schedule recommends, but it gets more expensive (although we’re only talking 900ml or so of oil each time).

Things I thought that were noteworthy:

  • Although I had only covered 1’000 miles since the last change, the old oil was quite dirty, although there were no metallic fragments/shards in there, which is fantastic, as it indicates the engine is bedding in well.
  • The YBR used 1l of oil, whereas the CBF uses 900ml, so I should get 10 oil changes for the price of 9!
  • The sump plug is on the underside of the engine casing, rather than the side. I think this is a good thing as you’ll definitely get more oil out, but be careful about which way you tighten/loosen it because it’s upside-down! I found there was no need to rock the bike and tilt it on the centre stand to get extra oil out. You could just leave it for a few minutes and it was pretty much as drained as could be.
  • The sump plug sealing washer is some kind of alloy, rather than the traditional felt/copper. There is no mention of replacing it at each oil change either, at least in the owner’s manual.
  • The tightening torque is 30Nm which is 1/3 more than the 20Nm specified for the YBR – this was a little strange, considering both plugs are M12. Didn’t strip any threads on tightening and there were no leaks either, so it’s all good. Definitely use a torque wrench if you do this, they are well worth the money (I have a Halfords Professional 3/8″ 8-60Nm one which suits pretty much everything I’ve ever come across on the bike and it’s accurate).
  • I personally find the dipstick a little hard to read accurately as the thin 10w30 oil tends to flow all over the marked section if you tip it horizontally after taking it out. Keep it vertical if you can as you will usually need to top up a little bit after changing the oil and running the engine for a few moments.
So, tomorrow, family/weather permitting, I’ll hopefully do the valve clearances and try to take a few pictures as something like a ‘how-to’ has been requested.

2 thoughts on “1’500 miles – might as well do an oil change!

  1. Just changing the oil on my bike. The Haynes manual mentions that the sump washer should be changed but it looks in good condition to me. Do you think it’s fine to not change it?

  2. Hi, tightening the sump thread bolt too much has caused the thread to go. Do you think a helicoil kit would be appropriate in this situation? I’m just worried it might damage something if I block up those small holes in the thread. Thanks,

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