4’890 miles – 5’000 mile service time.

Second service done by myself – nothing too interesting to report, spark plug was a good ‘tan’ colour, no metal fragments in the (dirty) old engine oil and nothing had ‘failed’ as such. Valve clearances had opened up a little (within 0.04mm or so) since the last service. I expect them to settle down as the miles pile up.

Procedure was the same for the 2’500 mile service, apart from the following:

  • Replaced the spark plug with a new CPR8EA-9. Those who are more observant will see that I’m using the higher heat range (or colder) plug than standard. This is because much of my 30 mile commute is with the engine running between 7’000 and 8’000 rpm in 5th gear at a speed of around 55mph. Judging by the colour of the old plug (which is the same type) and lack of carbon/soot build up on it, things are working properly so I’ll definitely be sticking with them.
  • Checked torque of critical chassis nuts/bolts/fasteners (found nothing to be loose though). This actually takes quite a while, especially where there are panels/fairing in the way.

The fairings on the CBF125 are starting to become a bit of an annoyance. I spent quite a while trying to get a screw to line up with its hole in the front left cowling. For superfluous pieces of plastic that serve no function other than aesthetics, they sure do waste a lot of time! Oh well I guess they do provide some protection to the electrics from the elements.

Brake pads are starting to look a little bit on the low side, maybe 2mm or so until the wear indicators run out. They’ll be definitely due a change next time. The Conti-Go! tyres have been wearing quite slowly, which is great. Plenty of tread left on both of them. To be honest I hope to get around 8’000 miles out of the rear before it’s worn out.

I also took the opportunity to apply copper grease to the threads of various fasteners in preparation for winter. I know all too well what a nightmare it is when a bolt head snaps off in the socket when you’re trying to undo it. Usually means lots of time wasted with ‘easy-outs’ (anything but easy!) or a drill, trying to get rid of the remains, then tapping a new thread or cleaning out the old one. The British winter is harsh on our bikes and I shall be posting a little survival guide for both you and your bike soon… Stay tuned!

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15 thoughts on “4’890 miles – 5’000 mile service time.

  1. Hi there, good to see your CBF is running nicely. Just got a new set of clutch plates on mine, been really nice to drive! me and my friend been driving around our cbfs, he let me have a go on his and one thing i noticed is it revs a lot more freely than mine, and at top speed his will go about 10 mph faster than mine. Not sure what it could be? I’m thinking its been ragged so much but it only has 6k miles on the clock!

    Best regaurds, Harrison.

    • I’m really surprised that you needed new clutch plates this soon – unless someone has mega-slipped the clutch or been pulling wheelies by dumping it and being generally ham-fisted, I’m a bit bemused. For instance, my YBR’s clutch has developed a slight slip, but only in 4th and 5th gear when loading on the engine is very high, like going up a hill. It’s slight enough not to cause an issue so I put off doing anything about it. This started at around 34’000 miles or so. Bear in mind it’s never had any work done on the clutch, besides cable adjustment.

      If you’re measuring speeds relative from his speedo to yours, bear in mind that they’re not terribly accurate and can vary from bike to bike. In the case of an all-out drag race, other things like your weight vs his weight may also have an effect, before you start looking at the mechanics of the bike itself.

      Looking at the mechanics – a well run in engine might perform a little better (valve clearances within spec, engine oil not old/low – if you had the clutch done you will have new oil in there though), other factors like tyre rolling resistance might also have an effect – are you using different makes/models of tyres? Another possible culprit might be a binding front or rear brake. Do both wheels spin freely when the bike is on the centre stand? If you apply the front brake, release it, then try and spin the wheel, does it turn freely and easily, or do you need to force it to get 1/4 of a turn?

      • Me and him have taken turns on each others and have had a little “drag race” this definitely revs a bit more freely than mine I am a taller and a bit heavier than him but not much. Thanks for your suggestions I will try them when I get home and tell my findings.

        Thanks, Harrison.

  2. another gr8 post CBF125Rider,
    by the way can you suggest a good torque wrench for me as i have to check the valve clearence and the rainy days off should be here soon.

  3. Hi – great blog. I just bought a red CBF125 (2010 model) and have done only about 150 miles on it so far (my total as a rider in fact). All seems very good with the bike, but I would like to to know if the throttle can be adjusted to operate a little more smoothly – or is it just down to technique? I get a bit too much lurching at the point where the throttle is actuating it’s counterpart somewhere in the engine (sorry I’m not sure mechanically what is doing what). Or should I be riding the clutch more to smooth this out?

    • Most likely technique, or perhaps your clutch cable needs adjustment. If you have the owner’s manual, the procedure is documented there and it very easy. You basically have 2 nuts at the engine end of the cable – one is a locknut, the other is used to adjust the amount of ‘free play’ in the lever. Free play – I mean the amount you can move the lever without actually pulling on the clutch, where the cable is slack. You should aim for about 1cm of movement at the end of the lever before you feel the cable starting to go tight.

      At slow speeds you should be using the clutch a lot, ‘feathering’ or ‘slipping’ it as not to transmit too much power directly to the rear wheel. Use it in conjunction with the rear brake and balancing the throttle to maintain a very low smooth speed whilst being able to rev reasonably freely. The technique is commonly called ‘slow control’.

      • My apologies for not replying to say thanks sooner, so ..thanks! (I was expecting an auto email notification). Anyway, I adjusted the throttle to have less play and adjusted my technique to be smoother, much better now!

  4. Hey,

    When i would like to check my calve clearance,
    Should i need to drain my oil? Or cane that be done with oil still in the engine ?
    thanks

  5. Has anyone else used a GPS to check the accuracy of the speedo and odometer on their CBF125?
    I rode the other day and used my Garmin Edge 800 GPS (which I bought for cycling but also use on my CBF125). During the ride the max speed indicated by the CBF125 speedo was about 64mph, but my GPS indicated a maximum of only 94.4 Km/h = 58.64 mph. The CBF125 speedo is overestimating the speed by about 8.4%! Before you ask, my tyre pressures were checked with a Draper digital pressure gauge before the ride. The odometer on the CBF125 was much more accurate though, as the journey was measured at 42.15 miles on the CBF125 trip meter and the GPS measured it at 67.16 Km = 41.72 miles, so that only a 1% difference.
    I’m guessing they’ve designed the speedo to significantly underestimate the speed. If you’re in a 30mph zone and the speedo needle indicates 30 mph, you’re really only doing 27.5 mph. If you want to hit 30mph in actuality, the speedo needle needs to be pointing to about 32.7 mph.

    • I have an original TomTom Rider GPS – and get similar readings to you. As a rough guide, I tend to say it’s just under 10% over-reading. Legally, that’s fine – the law states that you can over-read by up to 10% but not under-read at all. On this bike (and a lot of small, cheap bikes), they’re very simple, analogue eddy-current devices (see http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Speedometer#Eddy_current ) I’d expect them to vary a little from bike to bike. My YBR125, on the other hand was actually bang on 100% accurate! I must have been very lucky.

      Funny in a way as we have fuel injection and therefore an ECU which could be capable of measuring speed digitally (if we know the gearing reduction ratios of the bike, which gear we’re in and when the crank completes a revolution it can be worked out). Although I know the ECU in the CBF isn’t so comprehensive and has no gear position sensor etc. But that’s how it’s done on bigger bikes.

      As for the odometer, I don’t expect it to be so inaccurate that it will have an effect on the service intervals – I’m happy to go by it for working out those.

      • I was wrong in my inaccuracy percentage calculation.
        ((64 – 58.64)/58.64)*100 = 9.14% (not 8.4% as I wrote above).
        Pretty close to the 10% over-reading allowed.
        I don’t suppose its possible or legal to recalibrate it to be more accurate, is it?

  6. hi all need some help i have a cbf 125 got new from dealer and had the first two services done at the dealer but after speaking to the dalers about the 5000mile service i was stunned at the price of £140 so im thinking of getting my dad to so it instead seen as he is more than qualified to do it
    but this is the problem i know that if my dad does this then i have no warranty anymore which doest really bother me but lately the bike makes a pop sound once every time im out for more than 30 mins on it and sometimes slips out of 5th gear into no gear which means the engine revs to redline and i have to shift up quick to stop it from blowing up on me.

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