At 7’500 miles, the service schedule dictates that the engine oil filter strainer is cleaned. This is located inside the engine, and such, is not so straightforward to get at. Small capacity engines like our beloved CBF’s, don’t tend to have much in the way of oil filtering – they rely more on regular oil changes to keep everything running smoothly and don’t have an external, throw-away filter that you replace every-other oil change, unlike bigger engines. if this small strainer gets blocked with dirt/sludge, it’s curtains for the engine. So how do we check out the internal oil filter on the CBF125? Read on…
Safety first! Engine oil is carcinogenic – so I’d advise that you wear gloves when there’s a risk of it coming into contact with your skin.
Tools and consumables used:
- 3/8 inch breaker bar.
- 3/8 inch torque wrench.
- 12mm, 8mm (deep) sockets.
- Rubber mallet.
- Wallpaper scraper.
- Stanley knife.
- A small pair of pliers.
- Copper grease.
- A new clutch-cover gasket.
So, we begin by draining the engine oil – which is where our 12mm socket comes in. Torque the drain bolt back up to 30Nm when you’re done. Use a new sealing washer if you can – I have had great success with a self-sealing dowty washer, available from plumber’s merchants and the like. If you’re stuck at this point, STOP and let a competent mechanic do the work!
With the engine empty of oil, we can begin! Sit yourself down so you’re looking at the right-hand side of the engine (where the exhaust is), and undo the two bolts that are holding the clutch cable retaining plate in place:
Keep those bolts safe, start arranging them on the ground in the same orientation that they came out of the engine – trust me, these engine cover bolts are different lengths.
Next, with the clutch cable plate free, gently free the end of the clutch cable:
Now remove the ten remaining engine cover bolts in a CRISS-CROSS pattern (top, bottom, side, side etc). This is important so we don’t have areas of differing stress on the engine casing, which could warp the mating surfaces. You’ll also need the deep socket here, as you can see – a normal one won’t go over the bolt head squarely.
As previously pointed out, try to arrange the bolts in such a way so that you know where they came from because there are two different lengths used. The three which sit under the cylinder barrel are shorter than the rest. This is the point where you might want to place a drip tray under the engine.
Now, grab the mallet and give a few short, sharp taps to the top and bottom of the engine cover, supporting it with your other hand as you go, until you feel the gasket seal breaking loose, and the cover coming free: