About The Author

I’m Neil and I’m a motorcyclist! I used to commute about 300 miles a week on my trusty Honda CBF125. The motorcycle was my only form of transport, bar public transport, and I choose to ride primarily because of the extremely low costs of doing so. To put things into perspective, if I were covering the same commute by train, I’d pay 2 – 3 times as much for a season ticket as I would to keep my bike running (that includes ALL costs, even insurance and road tax)!

My background is technical, but specialised towards music, and I am qualified to degree level in the field of music technology. Since an early age I have had an urge to take things apart, starting with my grandfather’s old alarm clock – I even managed to put it back together again, although it has never worked since! I currently work in the field of IT as a systems administrator, specialising in Apple Macs at a university, with previous experience in IT training and before that, providing technical provision for the music department. I’m also qualified as an Apple Certified Trainer for the music production platform, Logic Pro.

I am a husband and father to four children, two rabbits, two guinea pigs three degus and a bunch of Giant African land snails. You could say that I’ve got rather a lot on my plate, but to be honest, I’ve got to admit that it’s really my wonderful wife who keeps everything propped up. You could even go as far to suggest that I’m her fifth child!

I have held a full motorcycle licence since June 2008 and previously rode a Yamaha YBR125, achieving a mileage of nearly 40’000 miles on it, having owned it since it originally had only done 500 miles. Sadly, it was written off in an accident that was not my fault. That bike taught me an incredible amount about maintenance – I took on all the servicing after 16’000 miles and built up a fair amount of experience of how to keep it going all year round over 3 winters.

I decided to write about my experiences with the CBF125 as it was a ‘new kid on the block’, as it were. It’s been quite an adventure for me as I had no idea how things would pan out, although the CBF125 was *supposed* to supersede the venerable CG125! I planned to run it indefinitely and take on all servicing myself, bar the first 600 mile service. Hopefully my experiences might provide others with some helpful insight into how the CBF125 fares, it’s characteristics, quirks, strengths, weaknesses and longevity.

I’m always looking to hear from other riders and any insight and experiences they want to share, so please do contact me if you feel you have something to say!

98 thoughts on “About The Author

  1. Hi as you are in the Uk, I think that should be Licence !
    license (American English) licence (British English, Canadian English, Australian English)

    • Hi David,

      Thank you for your comment, it’s now corrected. Seems the dictionaries on here don’t pick it up. I wasn’t even aware there was an alternative spelling (by the way, the ‘k’ in UK should be in upper case)! 😉

  2. Do you have any advice on this bike, I am trading up from the ‘old’ CG125 (1994) and hope to get the ‘new’ cbf125 within the next week! They are waiting to get the Black i requested. I then have to travel 70 miles or so home on twisty roads and a ferry! Initially what should I watchout for?
    Many thanks in advance
    Susan

    • Hi Susan,

      Personally, unless the CG has a major problem(s) that would cost a lot of money to fix, I would actually keep the CG! The CG is renowned for its reliability, due to its really simple design, which includes a carburettor (see my post about the fuel injection issues with the CBF) and excellent overhead valve/pushrod engine (more reliable than overhead cam, and easier to work on!) How many miles has it done, out of interest? I have heard of one example doing 250’000 (yes that’s a quarter of a million!), and many going round the clock. The only reason I never got one is because they’re hard to find where I live (at least when I was looking). For sure the CBF has a more modern look and I think the build quality is okay, but I am not 100% convinced that India is as good at it as Brazil was (where the CG was built). CG’s have nearly 40 years of service behind them, going back to the 1970’s and they have built up a solid reputation over time. The CBF is only a couple of years old, so we’re still in ‘uncharted waters’ with it at the moment.

      All that aside, if it’s a brand new bike, then watch out for the tyres – firstly make sure they’re Continental Conti Go!’s and not TVS, which are awful! Also, any new tyre will have a residue left on from the manufacturing process that preserves it. You need to be gentle with them for a couple of hundred miles or so, go slow into corners and don’t lean the bike too much at first (gradually increase the lean over a few journeys). Also be careful and gentle with the brakes as the pads/shoes will be new, and you could (in theory) easily lock a wheel if you brake too enthusiastically. They might snag as the friction surfaces need to bed to the disc/drum respectively. That is, any irregularities in the pads need to be worn out. Allow a hundred miles or so (so I’ve been told!) and just brake gently, rather than ‘last moment, grab a fistful’ style. You’ll also notice that the front disc brake is much more powerful than the drum on the CG and it might take you by surprise.

      Now this part (about engine running in) is subjective and there are many opinions about how to do it, or whether to do it at all! Personally, I did run the engine in as per Honda’s instructions – which was to ride normally (not ragging it at full throttle all the time), and letting it idle and warm up for 5 minutes before setting off on a journey. Finally, watch out for the fuel pump, especially if it’s a hot day – if your bike is a late 2010 or 2011 model, you may well have a CBF that has a faulty one and you’ll know it when your bike starts to lurch as the engine momentarily gains/looses power when the fuel injection system goes crazy. If it happens, just park up for half an hour or so and you’ll be okay to carry on as normal. Then call the dealership you got the bike from and they should replace the defective pump under warranty.

      Hope this helps and I hope you enjoy whatever bike you choose to carry on with!

      • Many thanks for that, I will be keeping the CG, as you rightly say it is very reliable, but prone to needing alot of TLC! The idea of the CBF is not a new one, I have been toying with it of over a year. I am in the Western Isles, Scottish Off shore so it will be fun and game taking it back with a faulty fuel pump! It reminds me of the first time i drove a car with power steering, i spent most of my time over correcting to compensate, so this should be fun and games, oh i didnt mention, Im 40 and can strip and rebuild the CG!

        Thanks again for the advice

      • Hi

        Do you know if the 2014 model had fuel pump issues; as mine lost power and cut out on a hot day; after standing in roadworks for about 10 minutes – let it cool down, opened the tank filler in case there was a vacuum, checked leads, sensor leads etc. After 10 mins of standing it seemed fine again. I followed your guide on checking the valves (which is a great guide BTW and easier than i thought, as i’m used to working on cars) and i found the exhaust valve was almost none existent – my bike’s done 2400 miles and is due for it’s second service by Honda as i bought it new, but i thought what the hell, i’ll check the valves anyway. I’m pretty sure they’re right now, but there is a slight rattle when the engine’s cold, but i haven’t ridden it yet.

        Thanks in advance – Andy

  3. I certainly don’t have your years of experience (only been doing this for 3 years and I’m not 30 yet!).

    I bet you’ll miss how certain things on the CG are so straightforward compared to the CBF (like the FI system and disc brake)! I always wonder why they add these mod-cons to what are supposed to be basic machines. I know EU emissions laws are responsible for fuel injection but a disc brake (it’s nice but I think drums work fine on a small cc bike)?! Maybe Honda would ship you out parts to replace yourself if anything was faulty? Also not sure if your location means that the bike would be more exposed to a lot of salt from the sea. People have reported corrosion issues on the CBF, specifically the exhaust and other shiny bits like the brake pedal/gearshift. You might have heard of ACF-50, which is excellent at preventing corrosion – http://www.acf-50.co.uk/motorcycle.htm – although it’ll burn off the exhaust pipe if you put it there. There are stainless steel exhausts available for the CBF though for when the stock one does finally rust through.

  4. I will also be using ZX1 which is an oil additive but will not effect the ‘wet’ clutch, should i ever lose the oil in the engine it wont refuse to go ever again and Ice polish which coats all ‘shiny’ bits. I am hoping that i will be allowed to service the bike myself, even a child could do that! Yes you are right i am exposed to much more sea salt, this should be fun.

    Regards as always

    • Never tried oil additives myself, do they make a difference in your opinion? One other thing about the CBF is that Honda only specify 10w30 oil in that engine for some reason. I don’t see how using 10w40 or other common viscosities would harm it but I thought it was a little peculiar of them to do it. Warranty-wise you can service it yourself but if it develops a fault due to something you did, it’s not covered, although failure of something that has nothing to do with how you service it is covered. When I asked my dealer they told me it was fine as long as I use genuine Honda parts. A lot of dealers do want you to get bikes serviced by them as they can make more money out of it, but we know better! 🙂

      By the way, fuel economy is much better on the CBF than the CG – I’m getting around 130mpg on average and I wouldn’t say I ride it carefully, just normally.

      Another difference is the riding position – it’s a bit ‘sportier’ than the CG/YBR style bikes (my legs are further back/bent) and higher up – I noticed I can see over cars a lot more easily which is really good. I find it a lot more comfortable over longer journeys personally.

      The fairing also catches the wind more than a naked bike – I found I have to wrestle it a bit more when there are strong side winds. The tall screen is worth getting (go for the Givi one as it’s cheaper and looks very similar to the Honda one, in fact Givi make Honda’s one for them, as well as the luggage bits). The plastic ‘sports rack’ which is standard, is useless for securing luggage on and there are no anchor points for bungees on the frame – Honda/Givi do a proper luggage rack and you can secure their top box plates to it or just use it as is.

    • Hey Paul, thanks for posting, I’m really intrigued, as after reading your blogs, you seem to be dropping ten sizes of bike down to a 125! Watch out for the fuel pump – there is a faulty batch of them out in the wild, and you’ll know it if, on a very hot day, your CBF starts to ‘kangaroo hop’ and lose power. Your dealer will replace it with a new one under warranty if it does have a problem. You might be interested in the CBF125 Facebook Owner’s Group too.

      • Cheers for that Information, the CBF is an addition, my current bikes are staying put. Hopefully my reason will become clearer as the blog unfolds.

        I love all bikes of all shapes and sizes, CBF takes me back to my youth and my very first bike a Honda CG125.

        Ride safe and enjoy the low cost mile.

  5. Hey mate

    Just wanted to say I love the site, am gonna use your info to help me do a fuel filter on mine. I hope you don’t mind but I’ve blatantly borrowed a lot of ideas from your site for my own at http://www.martincrowe.co.uk. I really hope you don’t mind, but if you do, let me know and I’ll change my content. I did reference your site as the inspiration for mine 🙂

    Cheers

    Martin

  6. Hi, I was wondering if you knew from your work shop manual what the torque figures to change the cylinder head gasket?

    I have the gasket set on order, I wanted to get a Haynes Manual, but there isnt one yet.

    If you could help me with this I would be most grateful!

    All the best Rob,
    (ps… Love the blog!)

    • Hi Rob,

      The figures you need are:

      Cylinder head cover bolt (x2): 10Nm
      Rocker arm shaft bolt (x2): 5Nm
      Cam sprocket bolt (x2): 9Nm
      Camshaft holder bolt (x4): 32Nm
      Insulator socket bolt (CCT mounting bolts really) (x2): 12Nm

      Cylinder head bolts aren’t mentioned so they’ll use the standard torque for whatever size they are, which also isn’t mentioned! I’d have thought they’d be M6 or M8. If M6 then 10Nm, if M8 then 22Nm.

      Hope this helps.

  7. Hey, I’ve had the CBF 125 since July 2010 and as a learner/ commuter bike it’s not once had a problem. Does what it needs to do I went from south Wales to north wales and back in a day and ran like a dream.

    One thing I must say tho is change the tiers from factory as there total rubbish, I got the contis and noticed more traction and better accrle

    • Hi Stephen,

      Indeed, most new 2011 CBF’s are coming with Conti-Go’s as standard. Mine did. I never experienced the fabled TVS tyres, but on my YBR, it had Cheng Shin nylon tyres which I suspect were plagued by the same problems. Awful grip in the wet, and in the dry if I had to brake suddenly. I quickly changed them for Pirelli City Demons which were much better and later Michelin Pilot Sportys which were the best I’ve ever used. I’d even say a bit better than Conti-Go’s but not by much. It’s a shame you can’t get them in the CBF’s sizes – some people have fitted the closest match but they are a little bigger and there are accounts of them rubbing on the brake arm, which is definitely no good.

  8. Hi, great site…just got my CBF yesterday!

    I’ve already come across a problem though, my left wing mirror is loose and just flaps. I’ve taken back the rubber protector and tried adjusting the bolts but I just can’t seem to get it to tighten… I’m sure it’s something very basic, but it just won’t stop flapping!

    Any ideas?

    • Perhaps you stripped a thread? I doubt it though as that would be quite difficult. Wing mirror nuts can be awkward. I can’t remember for the CBF specifically at the moment, but on some bikes they are reverse-threaded – you hold the mirror still and turn the nut – sometimes anti-clockwise in order to tighten. You’ll soon find out…

  9. I have just found out that I have one of the faulty fuel pump injectors! like riding a bucking bronco! But I suspect I’ll be waiting till 2049 for the replacement part as I have been waiting for a new side panel since apr 28th and numerous other parts after a collision with a blind taxi driver. I like this bike alot but I will never be buying a bike that is manufactured in India again due to the impossibility of getting parts.

    • Not sure about the plastics but in my case, the new fuel pump arrived within a week or so. There are quite a few parts on eBay, and other sites like Wemoto, but I agree, some things in particular do seem harder to get hold of.

  10. Hi,

    I am a bit freaked out, because, I think you and I are the same person. I, like you, am a qualified sound engineer and work in a university (although ProTools is my area rather that Logic). I also ride a CBF125 (Black) and hold a full licence. And to finish off, I also like to take everything to bits.

    The day I got the new bike (26th June 09) I took her for a 120 mile spin and within a couple of hours of arriving home I had everything off her bar the engine. Oh yeah, we even have the same alarm fitted too. Next you’ll be saying you have fitted R & G heatted grips for the winter…

    Love the site mate, keep up the good work.

    All the best

    Steven

    • Don’t worry my name isn’t Steven! Although I’ve used Pro Tools on and off over the years… just that where I work at the moment is Logic based so I have to follow suit.

      Thanks for the kind comments! I am not going with heated grips – Tucano Urbano R361 bar muffs are more than enough for my hands. Things have been very busy lately with work/family but I am hoping to post some more articles soon.

  11. Can I say how excited that I am of taking posession of my first motor bike(November 2011), the CBF125M9, 59 plate, but even more excited that I have found your site so soon after getting my bike. I’m 39, have been working as an offshore mechanic since 1997 and reading through your site I cant believe the support and confidence you have given me. The onshore technical support for my company isnt as good as this site, believe me!
    So thank you for your hard work and knowledge. I’m sure I will be posting some comments and asking questions in the near future.
    All the best for the New Year
    Stuart

  12. I bought my new cbf125,after 1122 miles I took it back to motoden for first servic
    e.I paid £135 and the mechanic asked me to take it back for second service if I reach 2500 miles.I think is too much.I’ve decided servicing it once a year.What could you advice me?

    • The mechanic is right – Honda state that the bike should be serviced first after 600 miles then at 2’500 miles (or 6 months, whichever comes first) and every 2’500 miles/6 months after, so your first service was actually late! In your owner’s manual, is a full breakdown of what needs to be done at each service. Servicing is done by mileage rather than time, unless you don’t clock up enough miles over a long time.

      Oil changes are extremely important for small engines like this that are high-revving – the oil does loads of jobs such as lubricating, cleaning, cooling and is shared between all the moving parts of the engine as well as the gearbox and clutch. These small bikes do need a fair amount of attention and they are ideal for learning how to do the work yourself – no excuse now as the Haynes manual has recently been published! You’ll save a fortune by doing the work yourself as well. 🙂

  13. HI!

    I’ve just procured a 09 CBF. And while searching for some technical information I stumbled upon this blog. I just want to say that I really like It as its a great bench mark for me to use as a guide.

    I do have one question. My bike is in need of a new front tire and the back is almost new. Do you have any input as to a good tire? I don’t mind the cost as long as it keeps me on the road instead of in a ditch. I spend allot of time commuting down tiny lanes in Devon so something that can handle a bit of wet and mud or is exceptionally sticky would be great.

    Any help would be greatly appreciated,

    • Continental Conti-Go!’s are quite well regarded on this bike but they are road tyres – they do well in the rain but I have no idea how they cope on mud/off road surfaces. Michelin Pilot Sportys are also excellent but come in slightly different sizes than what’s standard for the CBF – in terms of insurance, that’s a modification that you have to declare. I’d say any road tyre would struggle and ‘knobblies’ are seldom road legal (I haven’t seen any that are).

      • Thanks for the advice!
        I have been researching both as well as what I’ve got at the moment. The front is the infamous TVS, so I’m happy to get rid of it. The rear is a bit interesting though. Its a 100/80-17 by a company called Deli Tire. I have no complaints about it but I’ve been riding bikes long enough to know unmatched and unknown tires are a liability. I also don’t minding spending a bit extra on quality. I’ve learned my lesson about cheap tires in the past. So do you think there is any significant difference in the Continentals compared to the Michelin or is it down to tire compound?

        Thanks again
        Rod

      • I had Pilot Sportys on my old YBR and they were the best tyres I’ve ever tried, but the Conti-Go’s are okay. I find the CBF isn’t as easy to corner as my YBR – I feel that the bike doesn’t really ‘want’ to lean as much, where I could really throw the YBR about. Maybe it’s because of the different tyre sizes or perhaps it’s something to do with the geometry of the bikes, or maybe it’s differences between the tyres themselves, I don’t know. I would get Conti-Go’s again though.

  14. Fantastic Blog! Really well done. I just moved to Mexico City from New York City and traffic is a nightmare. I am looking at buying a small motorcycle for the commute to and from work, short distances in intense traffic. Looking at the Honda CGL125 Tool, the CG125 Cargo and the CBF150. The CG125 is only available as a single passenger, with a rack. Have been very interested in your comments to Susan to keep the CG. What would be your recommendation?
    Link to Honda Mexico, http://www.honda.mx/motos/unicorn/

    Thank you!
    Mark

    • If we could still buy new CG’s here in the UK I’d have gone for that – here the CBF is essentially being sold as the CG’s replacement. The CG’s overhead valve push-rod engine is more reliable and mechanically simpler, as is the carb that fuels it. Less to go wrong, easier and cheaper to fix when it does, ideal commuter/workhorse transport! 🙂 Fuel economy will be better on the CBF, but not by much (the CG does about 90-100 miles to the imperial gallon, whereas the CBF does 120-130). The only other reason I can see for going with the CBF would be style. The CBF150 is the same as the CBF125 but with a larger top end (piston/cylinder) in the engine – the bottom end is the same as far as I know, but it’s not sold in the UK.

  15. Thank you! Love your straight forward “workhorse” approach to motorcycles! Did you have a chance to look at the Honda Mexico Link?
    http://www.honda.mx/motos/tool/
    Not sure if the CGL125 and the CG150 are the same as the bikes that were sold in the UK. The CGL is said to be built in Mexico and the CG built in China. The CG150 is only available as a one seater, while the CGL125 is available for two up.
    Would appreciate your thoughts. Although the CBF looks nice, the CGL is very inexpensive $1100USD.
    Thank you!

    • We don’t really have 150cc bikes here, but they do resemble the older CG’s that were sold here – before 2004. Specifically because they have a drum brake rather than a disc brake on the front. It’s a really old fashioned design, but that’s good as it’s easy and simple to work on if you’re taking on the servicing yourself. A disc brake will have better stopping power than the drum brake but on a 125 I wouldn’t be overly worried – I did my basic training on an old drum brake CG and didn’t find it an issue. The drum brake is simpler to work on and doesn’t involve having to do fluid changes/bleeding or servicing a fiddly calliper mechanism which can suffer badly from neglect and corrosion. It will need adjusting from time to time as the shoes wear – a disc brake is self-adjusting. Adjustment is easy on a drum brake though. The 150 will have a little more acceleration than the 125 but not very much. Going 2-up on a 125 is doable but quite slow – I managed about 40mph tops with my wife on the back of the bike and it took a very long time to get there!

      • Thinking about it, in Mexico I bet the climate is hot and dry all year round, and you won’t have road salt to contend with – British weather, especially winters, are very hard on our bikes, we can go from temperatures in the 30’s (Celsius) in summer to -10 in winter with ice/snow, with rain, wind, hail and everything else in between! We get it all…

  16. You just made my life much simpler! Just saw a silver CGL125 on the street, very pretty, I love the simplicity, looks like a motorcycle should!

    I would be happy if I could go 40mph! We sat at the same stop light this morning for more than 10 minutes.

    Thank you for your advice!

    • You’ll do way better than 40mph on your own – should at 50 easily, and do more at a push (could get to 65-70 eventually but it’ll be screaming). I just converted the price – it’s in Peso’s, right? Came to just under £800 sterling – an absolute utter bargain! I wouldn’t even have to think about getting one if we could get them at that price here. A new CBF costs £2400 and is the cheapest geared bike Honda do here (damn EU emissions laws which mean no more carbs for us)… Go for it!

  17. Hi,

    This weekend I was in an empty car park practising slalom and figure 8’s around some cones (Sondico football cones – £7 for 6 cones – and they do the job great) in preperation for when I do the module 1 test in spring. I’m getting better with practice at slipping the clutch in 1st and tweaking the revs just above idle speed to control turns around the cones (I try to do it without the feathering rear brake as it’s an extra control to think about), but occasionally still have to dab a foot down.

    Anyway, I decided to try the slalom and figure 8’s in 2nd gear, instead of 1st, and was amazed to find it was much much much easier! I could weave in and out of the slalom cones and do tight figure 8’s like pro. The module 1 test has the slalom set at 4.5m between cones and the figure 8 cones are 6m apart. I was able to do all manoevres with great ease with just 3m between all cones and never dabbing a foot down. I think it’s due to 2nd gear reducing the acceleration at low revs compared to 1st, so speed control was smoother and less jerky.

    My questions are, is using 2nd gear for slow control harrmful to the CBF125 in any way (the engine didn’t sound like it was labouring)?

    Also, do you think a module1 examiner would fail me for using 2nd gear for the slalom and figure 8’s, even though I can still go at walking pace in 2nd? I’ve read that you would get a fail for not using 1st gear for the slow ride section of the test, but the slow ride is much easier. Obviously, you have to start moving off in 1st at all times (improper use of gears if you don’t, so I would have to change up to 2nd quickly before the slalom cones.

    • Hi,

      Not really sure how an examiner would react to the gears you use, especially as when I took my test, Module 1/2 didn’t exist – it was just a 40 minute ride on the roads with the examiner following, so I have absolutely no experience with anything to do with riding for the Module 1 test. I’m not sure if they can easily tell which gear you’re in anyway, so long as you ride accurately and with good control.

      You do make the engine labour a little harder using 2nd for really low speeds but it shouldn’t cause any problems. In snow/ice I use 2nd gear for slow control to really limit the amount of power/torque going to the rear wheel so it has less chance of loosing grip.

    • as its the same test pad for a1/a2/a with regards to the circit etc, stick to first. those dsa types love making more rules, speaking as a fellow learner.

    • Simon, hi

      I just took my UK Module 1 exam and passed on my new Honda CBF 125. I had previously failed it for attempting to change up to 3rd gear going round the bend in the emergency stop exercise and swerve test resulting in the bike loosing power at a critical time and this meant I went through the time recorder at 46 kph rather than the statutory minimum of 50 kph. I have been practicing for many months on an old car park with cones so here are some tips.

      1. On the slalom round the cones do this in 1st gear. The bike is comfortable at a walking pace and you will have more control going round the cones. You can get round without using throttle!

      2. On the faster exercises (emergency stop/swerve) STAY IN 2nd GEAR. Do not attempt to change up to third. Go round the bend in 2nd at a steady pace then as soon as the bike straightens up, use FULL THROTTLE (in 2nd gear) and get up to speed for the speed trap. Although the bike will rev up, you should comfortably get through above 50 and the high revs will not damage the engine.
      Just cane it. My speed this morning through the traps was 56 kph in the wet.
      P.S. the special road surface at the testing centre is designed to give equal grip in the wet as well as dry. So just go for it.

      3. Practice slow speed handing with your 125. On the car park get into 1st gear and ride slowly at a walking pace (this is a test manoeuvre). The CBF 125 will do this well at idling speed – you should not have to touch the brakes or throttle. After a while you will get to know the bike and be able to weave it round the cones at slow speed.

      4. Use the cones to practice the swerve test. I had measured out the exact distance on the car park, then put a little blob of paint to mark where each cone was. Well it worked for me.

      In conclusion just practice, the examiners want to see someone who is in control of the bike and not the other way round. Keep practicing the slow manoeuvres.
      Hope tho helps. Keep at it….it does get easier!
      Good Luck,

      Ray

  18. Excellent blog!
    Have had my CBF for a year now and am very impressed. I also bought from Belle Vue in Southend and was pleased with the service. Have serviced the bike myself from the first 600 miles and found it very user friendly. Had a Honda XR 125l as my daily commuter until it went bang! 62000 miles, hope the CBF lasts too….. How have you found the A13/ Sadlers Farm Chaos?? Don’t ya feel chuffed filtering through…… getting 100mpg plus….. I’ve never been more glad I got out of the car and back on the bike!! Safe Riding 🙂

    • Sadlers Farm – my God what a nightmare at the moment. Have you noticed the amount of mud and gravel on the roundabout lately? You have to literally tiptoe around it. Still, I hope the improvements are worth it in the end – for those of us going from the A13 to the A130, it should be a lot better.

      • Yep the mud and debris is quite an issue. Not much more they can do really as it’s like a car park most days! Have found I get really filthy riding along the A13 these days, and the little Honda loves to spray road grime all up your back!! Will be fabricating a rear hugger extension before the winter.

  19. Hi
    I am a CBF 125 Commuter . Nearly 2 years now . Far North Scotland . Need 2 change my back tyre .where can I find out how to take tyre off and new one on . Tools ect. I will be need ing to change my chain and sprocket soon too any info on how would be very well received .
    Tom 29

    • Get yourself the Haynes manual – it covers changing tyres and chain/sprockets. I’d recommend tyres are done professionally as they’re difficult to do when it comes to tubeless tyres on alloy rims. And then you have the issue of wheel balancing. Nothing like changing a bicycle tyre…

      • I haven’t seen any weights on either my front wheel or back .have you on yours? I don’t think you need to balance this wheel due to the bike doing such low speeds. Will buy the Haynes . Going to change my own tyres because it’s much cheaper ” only £35 for conti gos back tyre. It’s the way forward .

      • I haven’t seen weights but would imagine you could get the wheels balanced if you wanted to. I agree it may not be worth it and I never did with my YBR. Being tubeless tyres, getting a good airtight seal around the rim is essential, and alloy rims are very difficult when it comes to removing tyres by hand/tyre levers. It’s very easy to damage the rims/paint. If you can take the wheel loose to a tyre shop it won’t be too expensive (I was quoted £15) and they use a machine to do it. I have a good friend who is a mechanic and have watched him battle with them (swearing and all!) and would never want to attempt it myself – for what it costs it’s not worth chancing it in my opinion.

  20. hi i bort my cbf 125 09 plate for £700 dont no much about bikes as it my first it as full service history and its done 34000 miles the guy in garage said they only do 40000 and brake down when i took it for a service is this true

    • Depends on how well you look after it and ride it. It’s common for 125’s to not reach very high mileages because they’re predominantly ridden by learners who don’t know how or can’t be bothered to maintain them. There isn’t really a ‘magic’ number of miles you’ll get up to before it goes bang.

  21. Hey

    i am new to the CBF125 for the same reasons. i do 300 miles a week and average 130mpg which is great, i have only been riding though for a few weeks. it is getting easier and more enjoyable each day. i have yet to take my Module 1 & 2 and am goiing to wait maybe a year, to get some experience on the 125.

    so far it is great, i have purchased a GIVI tail bag, instead of a BOX but have issues to wher to connect the bungees. i currently remove the tail seat, fix the bungees around the seat then re-attached the seat. it is not ideal, but seems to work! it is just a pain though because the bungees have to sit right for the seat to secure. are there any solutions to where to connect bungees?

  22. Hey

    Just want to say great web site. I bought a second hand honda cbf 125 (59 plate) to do a daily 90 mile round trip from Grays in Essex through to Uxbridge London and had no complaints. After moving up to the midlands last year, I managed to the damage valves and piston and wiped out the engine and have only just finally got this back on the road (with a second hand lump in it) and a lot of the information I have got from here (whilst waiting for haynes hand book to come out!)….just wish I had found site a littler earlier.
    Thanks for this site and keep it going.

  23. Hi, I’ve found this site really useful as I’ve recently passed my CBT with the intention of swapping my thirsty old 2.0 mondeo for a bike to save money on my 25 mile daily commute. Although I’d really like a “sporty” bike the CBF125 seems to be ideal for my needs due to riding position, reliability and costs.
    I’m new to bikes and wondered if there are different specifications or if all CBFs are the same with revised versions (and is there a list of what the changes were for each revision)? I’m hoping to buy a low mileage well looked after model. Is it fair to say that the newer the bike the better and are there things that I need to look out for?

  24. Hi, just found this blog and its great. My son has recently bought a CBF and has already taken part one of the motorcycle. We are interested in doing as much work on the bike as we can ourselves to learn a little. Could anyone recommend a kit list of tools to start with?

    Many thanks
    Andy

  25. Hi CBF125rider, wow what can I say… simply amazing blog, really concise, honest and informative. As I have a CBT booked for 17th, I’ve spent the last few weeks scouring forums, reviews, blogs etc. to help me decide what bike I want to buy after training. I have to say that your blog has really made me think a bit more clearly so thanks, and keep up the good work!

    Anyway a few questions/advice if you don’t mind..

    Firstly when you wrote off your YBR, what made you switch to a CBF?

    Let me start off by explaining my scenario..

    I commute from Hertfordshire to City of London currently by bus to my local station (2.4 mile) and then train for the rest of the journey. I’ve always had a love for 2 wheels, cycled a lot over the years but always wanting more, hence the CBT booked.

    Originally I planned to buy a cheap run-around scooter to get me to and from the station (would save up to 30min wait for buses!). However the thought of the whole journey hit me, and I, like many of us poor public transport commuters are sick and tired of it all and want our freedom back, and what better way than a 2 wheeler!!

    So I took to looking into maxi-scooters that would be suitable for a 25mile commute to work, I almost convinced my self to get the Honda PCX-125, love the practicality, the storage, the looks and the technology!

    However through more reading and thinking about it all I came to the conclusion that actually a motorbike would be better for me despite the lack of storage space:

    1. I’m very much like you and have always been into, taking things apart, repairing things etc. and have no problem getting my hands dirty
    2. Motorbikes are generally easier to get to for service and are better looked after by previous owners
    3. I ultimately want to move to a geared bike in the future (something like a commuter in the 250-600cc range)
    4. Riding a scooter will not benefit me as much when taking a geared bike test!
    5. Fuel economy (despite the PCX’s excellent reviews still falls short of a geared bike)

    A few years ago when I thought about doing this I was thinking about a cg125 however as you mentioned they are harder to come by and although are rock solid, many have way too high mileage considering I’ll be doing 50miles a day on it.

    So here we are today and with everything I’ve read etc. and I’m looking at a CBF125, naturally the issues with the quality of the bike, parts and not forgetting fuel pump bothers me, however with that said I don’t think I should be aiming to buy this new in order to get warranty considering its my first bike. Also I’ve heard about the new laws in 2013 and have heard this will affect the depreciation of the 125cc category.

    What are your thoughts on this? Should I be looking for around 800-1.1k second hand CBF and save the money for a DAS course (I’m 24 and would eventually think about something with slightly more powerful), or should I get it from a dealer with warranty and accept paying more but knowing over a long commute through all weathers will pay off?

    Many thanks
    Trevor

    • Hi Trevor, I know your post wasn’t directed at me but I was in your situation earlier this year so thought you might find my experience helpful.
      I recently passed my CBT too (September) and was also going to buy a 2nd hand CBF. However, I soon found that to get a “good” one the cheapest price was between £1800-£2000. “Good” for me meant post 2011 model as the model was revised then (rev counter and manufacturers colours) and warranty would be in place, relatively low mileage and a sensible 1st owner (not a 17 year old who could see it as a disposable item). This is because I am also planning to take a full licence and knew that if these things were important to me now, they’d be even important to whoever I sell the bike on to in 6-12 months time. However, these were hard to come by and I missed out on 3 in the space of 2 weeks as they were being snapped up so quickly.
      So, more through necessity to be honest, I decided to buy new as they’re being offered on 0% finance with £99 deposit 🙂 The deal also includes the standard 2 year Honda Warranty, RAC breakdown cover, Honda membership AND the cost of a CBT! I had already completed mine so the kind dealer offered me store credit to the same value instead.
      I’m so pleased that I bought new. I have the peace of mind that any problems will be sorted and that while I will pay the majority of the depreciation when I come to sell I will have what I considered as a buyer a “good” bike.

      I haven’t looked back and I’ve got the bug.

      I hope this has helped. The only other point I’ll add is to make sure you buy quality clothing. If you’re serious about riding everyday you need to be warm and dry……….otherwise after a few soakings you’ll be tempted by the train!

  26. Just got a cbf125 on what av read on here it’s got tvs tyres so they be changed before the better weather cames it’s been serviced before I got it I keep reading and cbt training was easy you cant fail that part if you had a bike before am 44 so a 59 plate for 1250 didn’t seem to bad apart from tyres av read on here that’s guys

  27. Hi CBF125Rider,

    I myself have just got a new CBF125 and will shortly be taking it for it’s first service. I’m quite keen to do all other services myself also but I have zero mechanical experience. I have the Haynes manual though. Do you think it is something that I could do or would you suggest it better to leave it to the pro’s? I’m doing about 180 miles a week to commute so the servicing will be needed every 3-4 months.

    Regards.. Karl

    • I’d say read up on the Haynes, have a look at their more general motorcycle Techbooks for things like an introduction to different tools and their correct usage, maybe join up with places like BikeChatForums and the CBF125 Facebook owner’s group. Whilst there’s lots to think about, it’s all pretty logical stuff and certainly isn’t rocket science. A small simple bike like the CBF is quite good as a first foray into the world of motorcycle mechanics. Get your hands dirty, start with simple things like an oil change, or chain adjustment and see how you get on. You’ll know if you get the bug as you’ll want to do more and more. 🙂

  28. Good morning.

    I have spent quite some time reading your posts and useful information. I have been a cbf 125 rider for just over a year now but unfortunately had a lady pull out from a junction in front of me causing me to go straight in to the side of her car! That wrote off my bike, I took the insurance money to a Honda dealer and bought a brand new 62 plate cbf 125 and have so far done 100 miles. I just wondered of you had any advice or any help for me to ensure I run the bike in best? I have noticed that the oil level is a little below full and needs a slight top up, do you know what oil Honda put in there from new or does it even matter if I top it up with a different brand? Also there is a bit of a judder on the clutch bite point, is this normal for a new bike?

    I really hope you can help

    Congratulations by the way to you and your partner 🙂

    Regards
    Matt

  29. Hi – great website – good to find people interested in this great little machine!

    Do you want to read a review from someone who has owned and ridden an 09′ Honda CBF 125 for 15,000 miles, pretty much every work day for afew years? .. then read on…

    I bought this bike to replace a 1.4 16v mid-sized petrol car for my daily commute, I did the sums properly and realised it should save me at least £300 per month based on my journey and all comparable expenses associated with ownership of my car (even more now fuel has gone up considerably since then!). My GF has a car anyway we could use for trips and shopping so the CBF is literally a money saving tool for the daily commute, and having had a bike license for some years, and with everything going up in price, its one option that I couldn’t ignore…

    Firstly before you read any further, if you are the kind of person who has permanent wrist ache from pinning the throttle open and neck cramp from licking the speedo then buy a different bike! If however you need a cool tool that will reliably and economically breeze you from A to B (via Z) then read on…

    The first thing that has to be mentioned about this bike is the absolutely incredible fuel efficiency, which is the main reason I bought the bike! God only knows how the Honda boffins have achieved it, something to do with the PGM FI fuel injection system, but I am being totally honest when I say I have achieved a calculated 140+ mpg (if the speedo is right!) Honda officially state 134mpg which many reviewers have rubbished as over stated, I can only assume they are thrashing a new, un run-in bike and getting below average MPG. As a daily commuter I try to ride smoothly and progressively, using the gears effectively without over revving. The fuel tank is 12 litres ish so when you consider how far you can go on one tank you will begin to forget where petrol stations are! From Full to brim to top of red reserve (not empty) I get 300 miles or nearly 2 weeks of mon-fri long commute for less than around a tenner!

    With that said what about all of the other considerations…

    Looks: well I am 6ft and 12 stone and I dont look big for the bike, people seem to thinks its a 250cc or 400cc (if size matters!), it has good road presence and tall skinny riding position compared with the Yamaha YBR and older Honda CG 125. Probably not as tall as its cousin the Honda VARADERO 125. I have given my GF a lift to work on the back a few times when her car was being serviced without issue. Aesthetics are subjective but I think the CBF looks sleek, modern and sharp, nice headlight (on all the time) and fairing too.

    Speed: Well its a 125 with less than 12 bhp! 35-40mph is ideal frugal cruising speed in 5th on the flat, 50mph is easily achieved, 60mph is still ok, never bothered pushing further but it feels like theres enough left to push beyond. Pulls from 30mph well in 5th with a satisfying throaty glug! Smooth and progressive up to 60mph with little vibration from engine. Motorways are just about do-able but this bike is in its element in the urban environment slicing up traffic with the odd fast A-road. If 70mph roads are your main route I would consider a bigger bike.

    Economy: well in excess of 100 mpg even with a lead wrist! enough said! £15 a year to tax, cheap insurance and at a purchase price of £1695 from dealer with 1800 miles on clock and 3 services by Honda and still just in warranty – I couldn’t grumble! Servicing such as routine oil change is childs play, no need to pay a garage so get yourself 1 litre of good oil and in 10 minutes your done! The instruction manual is like a Haynes! tells you all you need to know for routine maintenance.

    Handling: compact and easily swung into tight turns, I guess this is designed for beginners to this is my third bike after previously owning a 1000cc YAMAHA THUNDERACE. This is an eminently more useful bike for my intended purpose, which is going straight down the middle of stationary rush hour traffic! its all about AVERAGE speed, not TOP speed during the commute 🙂

    Engine: Well as a development from the legendary CG 125 it should be tried and tested, I change oil every 1000 miles (by instruction of dealer) to maintain protection, understand its a 125cc and use it within its capabilities I think it will be good for a long time. The engine is air cooled so no radiator fluids or associated flushing, leaks or bother. Chain is special O-ring link type to extend service life, I clean it and lube up once a week.

    Build Quality: Probably the only issue with this bike, don’t get me wrong its good, but its not usual Honda, is the build quality. I think they had to compromise some where to hit the low original selling price. My bike has some small specks of paint missing around welds which has started to develop rust spots (I will touch this up with some black hammerite), the chrome on exhaust has a couple of bubbles in it despite cleaning bike religiously. A lot of paint flakes from wheels and the unpainted black plastic parts are beginning to look a little weathered, mechanically I cant find a fault yet! Luckily for me its not just an ornament to polish, I actually use the bike to get somewhere so not that fussed.

    Reliability: Well ‘its a Honda’ after 15,000 miles only the indicator ‘flasher’ relay has packed in after about 10,000 miles, having it fixed tomorrow for MOT! engine still sounds fine (I presume not thrashing the bike and very regular oil change has kept engine sweet). Not needed new chain or sprocket yet either, again – riding steady probably helps.

    I would give this bike a big thumbs up for buyers interested in a practical and ridiculously cheap means of transportation, that said you have to be commited to riding through the great british weather like any biker! but the CBF seems to be made of sturdy stuff so far!

  30. Hi am not sure what the oil level on the dip stick on my cbf125 should show as it has pass and under that has small lines mine is on the p on the pass can some one help as don’t want to over fill the wee bike
    Thanks

    • Hi, my CBF 125 is one of the first of the models being an 08 plate (but registered in 09′) it has a short black plastic oil dipstick which screws into top right of engine, but there is no ‘p’ or ‘pass’ written on it?, on my bikes dipstick there is hatched area and below that a definite line for minimum oil level, I keep my oil somewhere near the top of this hatched area which is only about 10mm long on the dipstick (I think it says that in the manual – well I’ve done 15,000 miles like that without issue!). Make sure the bike is standing level on centre stand whilst checking oil as if the bike is on a hill or leaning on the side stand the oil will slosh somewhere else in the sump and give an inaccurate oil level reading.

      Hope that helps…

      Neil E

      Neil

  31. Thanks for that av not had it that long its a 59 plate rides good but waiting for better weather as I drive a car as well I think it’s maybe over a bit i find out thanks anyway

  32. Hi all,

    First of all, great little blog that I have stumbled across here and some great input off everyone.

    I have just bought myself a CBF 125 and so far I am happy except for some niggly bits.

    I purchased the bike three weeks ago from the dealer brand new, £2600 over 24 months which is on Honda finance at %0 which is fantastic, it is also my first bike.(waiting around at bus stops was starting to get intolerable)

    I’m 6 foot tall and a pebble over 15 stone, the bike has no problem moving me around and I do not look out of place sat on it, it seems like quite a bit of bike for a 125.

    As it is my first motorcycle it feels like quite a nippy machine, but then again, being a total novice I think riding a pony would feel fast to me ,the main thing is that it does what can only be expected of a 125cc

    I also think it is quite a good looking bike and have had many comments off people stating that it looks a lot bigger than what it actually is, I have it in white and it also came fitted with a belly pan as standard ,it makes a big difference to its appearance compared to the earlier models however it is only cosmetic so I guess it is irrelevant.

    It handles very well for me but I have nothing to compare it with as it is the only bike I have ridden, it feels well put together but has a lot of plastic bits (lets not forget it is only 2 and a half grand brand new so I cant complain)

    As mentioned in previous posts the MPG is on another level (got almost 300 miles from my first tank which cost £13)

    I didn’t take it above 50 mph for the first 350 miles and kept it between 5000 – 6000 RPM, I took it for its first proper ride on an A road yesterday and achieved aprx 72 mph on a very slight decline, although I do not think I would like to keep it at that speed for an excessive amount of time as the engine was screaming. (it was fun but I am also aware that this is not what the bike was designed for).

    Now the niggly bits…..

    The gear changing can sometimes be a little frustrating ,shifting up (1 -5) I have no issues with and it is always smooth, however when down shifting I sometimes have to click down twice to get it to shift, I always make sure to do it quite firmly but maybe I am doing something incorrectly (I am a novice remember) I have also had issues with it getting stuck in second and not going in to first when pulling up to red lights and coming to a slow stop, although now I have realised that if I let the clutch out slightly it usually makes a clicking noise and will pop in to neutral allowing me to shift to first. I have also had a false neutral a few times

    Today was the first time since I have bought the bike that it has rained, (I know, almost three weeks in England with no rain, could hardly believe it myself) and it rained pretty hard, took it nice and slow and had no problems, however when starting my bike a few hours later the flashing indicator light on the dashboard (if you can call it that) has stopped working, I’m no genius when it comes to bike mechanics / electronics but I’m assuming some of the pesky wet stuff has managed to sneak in somewhere, looks like I will be taking a visit to the dealership soon to get it looked at.

    Another thing, if you are buying brand new you must, and I mean must, take it easy on the brand new tyres for at least a hundred miles, even more if you can. On my second day of riding I was on my way to work at 07:30 in the morning ,the roads were slightly wet from where the morning dew had set and it was quite cold, my front wheel slid out on a roundabout and I almost lost it, I have absolutely no idea how I didn’t come off but I managed to save it, turn around and put my bike in my garage. That evening I took it for a long ride to get the slippery layer of whatever it is off the tyres, just so you know they are Conti gos which are actually supposed to be excellent compared to the previous stock tyres that were supplied.

    All in all I think it is a good bike and I’m hoping the gear issue will smooth out with time, it could just be my novice riding as the problem is not constant , although I will need to get the indicator looked at. like with anything new, some people might get teething problems, others probably will not. After all that is what the warranty is for. I bought the bike mainly on Honda’s reputation as an excellent manufacturer who are reliable and make safe bikes / cars. I will get my bike looked at by the dealer on the weekend as the warranty lasts for two years, I am sure all will be fine.

    Drive carefully and be safe and if you are a novice like me…..take it easy 🙂

    All the best

    Danny

    Plymouth

  33. hi i have Honda cbf i m riding a weak 250 mph
    i m just asking about engine oil
    when i need change oil
    how many mph after i need change engine oil
    thanks

    regard

    noor

  34. Hello,
    I’m looking to buy a Honda CBF125 (2013 Brand new), and i’ve read there can be issues with “Kangaroo Hopping”, Rusting, Fuel pump , electrics etc… Can You give me some insight? Are these only in specific cases or a common occurrence? Can any of these issues be sorted easy?

  35. Good day sir, a fine blog.
    I have been riding my CBF125 for bout 18 months. I commute and use it a lot at work for outreach. What I am wondering is this, do you have any idear what the bikes electrical load limits are ? I ride all year round and am determind to hit this winter whith heated grips. I know you can get Oxford lites, that are designd whith small bikes in mind. But I am runing a tigt budget and am hopping to pick up somthing used off eBay, however this Limits my choices. What do you think? Will standard grips flattery my battery/ burn out my loom?

    Thanks
    Ross

  36. Hiya mate im interested in your posts and its been driving me mad now but all I want to know is where the idle speed screw is?! Ive been told by the honda garage my honda cbf 125 2009 model is a turbo engine with no choke and an automatic idle but I run the engine for a minute and it just dies it sounds like the idle is pathetically low lol its only whem its cold though!

    So all in all im just wondering wether ypu can change the idle speed and where is the screw?

    If you can reply it would be most helpful

    Thank you

    • There’s no way to change the idle speed as it’s programmed into the ECU. If your engine isn’t idling properly it may be down to a few possibilities. As a starting point, valve clearances may be out of adjustment, or the spark plug may be defective, or it may be a faulty idle air control valve. Try the plug and valves first.

  37. Hi My CBF 125 rider, just wondered how the bike was still running and how many miles you’ve clocked up now. would be very interested. Very best regards Blue

  38. Fantastic blog, gave me the confidence to go and buy a little CBF125 myself and get into motorcycling finally! Like you I hope to put down some thoughts on the bikes journey and any little bits of attention it may need along the way. Thank you this fantastic resource. If anyone is interested heres my experience so far. http://hondacbf125mde.blogspot.co.uk

  39. I’ve had my CBF125 ’12 for around 6 months. Done around about 1000 miles. Absolutely love the bike and the riding (agree with you about the cross winds and the fairing) and I still can’t believe it’s taken me this long to get on 2 wheels.
    I had noticed a bit of sticking on the back drum though; goes on fine, but can be a bit tough coming off. For a complete novice mechanically, would you recommend getting the pro’s to look at and repair? Or would the job be manageable for me?

    • Hi Will,

      This is likely to be a sticky cam in the brake hub/plate that site in the rear wheel. when you operate the pedal, the cam turns, and forces the shoes apart so that they make contact with the drum. It’s a case of removing the rear wheel, stripping the brake plate then thoroughly cleaning (with wire wool) the bore and cam and re-greasing it. Use molybdenum grease which works very well for high load, low movement applications such as this.

      My advice is beg/steal/borrow a Haynes manual and look at the procedure for removing the rear wheel and servicing the rear drum brake, then making a decision as to whether it’s something you might be able to do. It’s not a particularly difficult or technical procedure and the CBF is a good bike to learn this sort of thing on. It’s a drum brake, so quite simple and you won’t be dealing with brake fluid or bleeding etc.

      • This happened to me last week, before stripping everything to bits just try a dab of grease between rear hub and pivot of brake arm, where the two meet, I did and voila – problem fixed. Try a 5 second fix before a 5 hour fix!

  40. Have my cbf 125 just over 2 months and done 800 miles since new. The problem I have is that I can’t make it go faster then 60 mph. Dead straight road. Flat with no head wind. Will do somewhere around 58 on 4th. After shifting to 5th no accelerating at all. Any thoughts. Have ridden the loan cbf125 and got more than 70 of it so started thinking there is something wrong with mine.

  41. Hi…I was wondering if you can help me, I have a CBF125, its three years last June and only has 2300 miles, yep that’s not a misprint, its low mileage and immaculate due to me being away with my job a lot. It has been started regularly and have had no problems, however iv been a way recently and it was last started 2 Month ago. Tried to start her today, flat battery and low tyres as expected, however when I got her started, its lost power and the exhaust is making a popping noise, I assume its mis-firing. Oil levels are fine. Is that expected after a period of not being started, and is it something I can fix myself, new plugs etc. Appreciate any guidance you can give.

    Love your website by the way, very useful
    Thankyou

    Olly

    • Hi Olly,

      Thanks for getting in touch.

      Plug is easy to change and cheap, so worth a try. Perhaps the petrol is also stale, if it’s been the same stuff in the tank for many months, or years. Failing those, it might be worth checking valve clearances.

  42. Thanks for your prompt response, It makes sense that the fuel might be stale, i will give it a try and let you know.

    Regards

    olly

  43. Just an observation on the Motorcycle Owners Club site – I hope ‘it’s yours’:
    http://hondacg125.awardspace.com/basic_fault_finding.htm#Electrical-Faults
    Honda CG125 Basic Fault Finding
    This page suggests the battery is relevant to starting. My understanding of the ignition system supported by this page http://www.robocog.dyndns.org/cg125/electrics.php suggests otherwise.
    If you agree your page might mislead, please tweak appropriately.
    I’d have emailed but failed to find any address.
    Keep up the good work.
    Incidental info. I was given a CG125BR with an intermittent ignition fault – little used I had no problem – until yesterday. I think I’ve found it – contact breaker gap practically nil.

    • Afraid that site isn’t mine but the chap who runs it does provide contact details there.

      It’s my understanding that there were many different models of CG, with different ignition systems – points and CDI which came to the later models, so they may all behave differently depending on the battery.

  44. Hi there
    I have found your webpage very useful when working on my Honda CB125e. Yes I live is Australia and we call it CB125e in here. The engine is totally the same, the chassis, fairing and dash are different. Do you by any chance managed to find a repair/workshop manual of the bike in pdf format?

  45. Hi
    Do you know anything about camchain set up? My cbf125 don’t have compression, I will open engine but I would now before how to set up cam chain. Your guide about valve clearances is very helpful.

  46. Thanks for your site very helpful. I just uploaded a few videos for the CBF 125 and then found yours checking the specification for gaps. Great to see you cover so many miles. They are very good bikes. I have owned several CG 125 and even a CB125 many years ago.

  47. Hi Neil, CBF125 Rider. What is your bike situation now? Have you sold the CBF125? Is there any other way to follow u, like twitter etc? You write an excellent blog, it’s sad that i’m just starting ownership of a CBF when it looks like your ending yours, i’ve read many places this is the best site for info on the CBF’s,

    Cheers.

    Phil

    • Hi Phil,

      Thank you so much for your comments! I’m bikeless right now, sold the CBF around 2 years ago but this blog lives on through you and others who continue to add your experiences through the comments – in fact you’ve given me an idea and I’ll write a new post about it soon…

      I’ve just followed you on Twitter – I tend to tweet about how much I hate the trains I travel on, along with my political musings. Looking forward to saying hi!

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