CBF125 vs YBR125 – from the archives

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Image credit: Visordown

I dug this up from a reply I wrote to a comment burried in the murky depths of this blog. It’s based on my experiences with both bikes and may be useful if you’re deliberating between purchasing a CBF or YBR, especially the older 2005 carburettor based YBR125. Although apart from the introduction of fuel injection, later YBR125s are similar.

What do I prefer? Well, I’m a bit divided to be honest; there are minor pros and cons to each bike… The CBF seems to have had more warranty issues than the YBR – the build quality is questionable, they’re made in India with the YBR being made in China, which has also had its issues, predominantly with premature corrosion. I’d love to hear your comments. Which do you prefer and why? Or are you riding sometbing else? Read on… Continue reading

Undocumented spare +12V switched connection!

There’s a dirty little secret that the CBF125 has been keeping from me and I’ve tapped into it. Behind the left front cowl, amongst the wiring, there’s a clear piece of tubing containing one lone female bullet connector crimped to two blue/black wires. The ONLY blue/black wiring on this bike is found on the live +12V output from Sub Fuse B – which is responsible to supplying power to the ECU, sensor unit, fuel injector, fuel pump and ignition coil. So why not crimp a male bullet connector to the positive feed of a low powered accessory (such as a GPS!)? Continue reading

Hello Cyclone V2, bye bye C-11!

Ok a bit of a U-turn… I’ve replaced the C-11 with a V2 and here are my reasons:

  • Remote starting is possible without needing the key at all, whilst also also having the immobiliser functions of the alarm set up.
  • You can use the key to start the bike as well, if you prefer, with the immobiliser set up.
  • Any attempt to hot-wire the ignition switch is detected (wasn’t the case with the C-11 if you wanted the immobiliser option).

Continue reading

So… you want to power a sat-nav or something from the battery?

Here’s what I did…

Forget tapping off the headlight, auxiliary or tail light – they’re all powered directly from the alternator itself. You need a stable 12 volt feed from the battery, preferably switched by the ignition. Ideally you also don’t want to be butchering the wiring loom and you want to find somewhere that’s relatively well shielded from the elements, AND which leaves you with the option of easily removing your connections and restoring the electrical system back to an unmodified original state with next-to no effort as all.Ladies and gentlemen, I believe I have found this holy grail! Continue reading

How-to: Fit fork gaiters on the CBF125

Fork gaiters are fantastic. I absolutely love them. Why? Because in 40’000 miles and 3 winters I never had to touch the fork seals or stanchions on the YBR as I had fitted a pair of these! They provide protection against the elements and more importantly, stone chippings flicked up from other vehicles, which will chip the chrome away, letting rust set in, forming pits which will tear fork seals apart. This will result in leaking fork oil, which, if left unchecked, could lead to damaging the fork’s internal components, poor suspension performance (a safety issue as the bike’s handling will suffer!) and an MOT failure. Replacing the seals alone is not enough because the pitted stanchions will just damage the new ones quickly again. You can get the stanchions re-chromed or buy new ones (or even clean out the pits and fill with an epoxy like Araldite, but that’s time consuming and requires skill). But, why spend your time, and possibly a lot of money depending on what you choose to do, on that when you can easily prevent these issues in the first place? Continue reading

Ariete Fork Gaiters!

If you’re going to ride all year round, fork gaiters are an absolute must in my opinion. I had fitted some to my YBR and never, in three winters and 40’000 miles, ever had to change a single fork seal or deal with rusting and pitting on the fork stanchions. They stayed clean, dry and in great condition. Did I say I NEVER had to change the seals – they were originals from the factory in 2005! And we all know what the last three winters were like… Continue reading