17’000 miles – drippy drippy!

So after thousands of miles of uneventful riding, the engine decided to start ‘marking its territory’. Little drips of oil appeared below the engine whenever I parked up and left the bike for a while. Maybe it had seen a Harley and was envious, or maybe it was just a sign of something being faulty. After all, this is the sort of thing you start to get happening after the miles start to clock up.

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Diesel, crash and sparks – ouch!

Ouch indeed… Crashed on the A13 on Tuesday (the 13th, strangely enough) – suddenly lost all control of the front whilst going straight on, travelling at around 40-50mph. The stink of diesel on the roads was immense, but I couldn’t see any at that point. Just before, I had been trying to avoid a mile-long slick in the middle of the left lane that I could just about make out – visibility was poor because of the heavy rain. Suffice to say, the driver of whatever vehicle was responsible is not on my ‘most popular’ list at the moment. Enjoy the video…

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How-to: Clean the engine oil filter strainer.

At 7’500 miles, the service schedule dictates that the engine oil filter strainer is cleaned. This is located inside the engine, and such, is not so straightforward to get at. Small capacity engines like our beloved CBF’s, don’t tend to have much in the way of oil filtering – they rely more on regular oil changes to keep everything running smoothly and don’t have an external, throw-away filter that you replace every-other oil change, unlike bigger engines. if this small strainer gets blocked with dirt/sludge, it’s curtains for the engine. So how do we check out the internal oil filter on the CBF125? Read on…

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Undocumented spare +12V switched connection!

There’s a dirty little secret that the CBF125 has been keeping from me and I’ve tapped into it. Behind the left front cowl, amongst the wiring, there’s a clear piece of tubing containing one lone female bullet connector crimped to two blue/black wires. The ONLY blue/black wiring on this bike is found on the live +12V output from Sub Fuse B – which is responsible to supplying power to the ECU, sensor unit, fuel injector, fuel pump and ignition coil. So why not crimp a male bullet connector to the positive feed of a low powered accessory (such as a GPS!)? Continue reading

CBF125 Service Data Sheets

To save myself leafing through pages and pages of workshop manuals, I’ve put some of the most useful information needed when servicing the bike together in the form of these ‘cheat’ sheets. Hopefully these will make things easier, such as when you’re going around the bike tightening up various fasteners to their specified torque settings. The check-list can also be used as part of keeping an accurate, detailed service history on the bike. No more need to rifle through the pages of a service manual. Please note that this information is to supplement that found in the owner’s and workshop manuals and should be used in conjunction with them. Enjoy!

  • CBF125 Specifications – Full listing of the most important specifications for the CBF125, including bulbs, fluid types/quantities, etc. Print it and fill in the specifics for your bike (frame number etc).
  • CBF125 Chassis Torque Settings – The most important chassis fasteners to check tightness of every 5’000 miles.
  • CBF125 Service Check-list – Print this and use it to keep a comprehensive service history, whilst doing things in the most efficient order.

Hello Cyclone V2, bye bye C-11!

Ok a bit of a U-turn… I’ve replaced the C-11 with a V2 and here are my reasons:

  • Remote starting is possible without needing the key at all, whilst also also having the immobiliser functions of the alarm set up.
  • You can use the key to start the bike as well, if you prefer, with the immobiliser set up.
  • Any attempt to hot-wire the ignition switch is detected (wasn’t the case with the C-11 if you wanted the immobiliser option).

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